This free plan builds a hardwood cutting and serving board from one 1 × 4 board. The post gives the full cut list, a cutting diagram, dimensioned drawings, step-by-step assembly diagrams and care notes. You can also download the plan as a printable PDF, with no sign-up.
Three boards are glued edge to edge, then trimmed, rounded at the corners, drilled for a handle and finished with food-grade mineral oil. Every board is the full width of the 1 × 4, so the only cuts in the wood are straight crosscuts. It suits a first kitchen project, and it is simple to repeat if you want to make boards to sell.
Cutting Board Plans at a Glance
| Finished size | 16 in. long, 10-1/2 in. wide, 3/4 in. thick |
|---|---|
| Wood | One 1 × 4 × 6 ft. hardwood board: hard maple, beech or cherry |
| Joinery | Three boards glued edge to edge, with no screws or nails |
| Details | 1 in. radius on all four corners and a 1-1/4 in. handle hole |
| Supplies | Wood glue labelled for indirect food contact, food-grade mineral oil, sandpaper |
| Skill level | Beginner |
| Build time | About 2 hours of work, plus time for the glue and the finish (estimate) |
| Finish | Food-grade mineral oil, with beeswax as an option |
How This Board Is Designed
- Crosscuts only. Each of the three boards is the full 3-1/2 inch width of the 1 × 4, so you never rip a board lengthwise.
- Three boards, one size. All three are cut 16-1/2 inches long from a single 6-foot board. The three cuts, the saw kerfs and a 1 inch trim at each end use 51.75 of the 72 inches.
- Trimmed after gluing. The glued board loses 1/4 inch at each end. This leaves clean, square ends at 16 inches, even if the boards slid a little in the clamps.
- A hole that avoids the joints. The 1-1/4 inch hole sits in the middle board, 1-3/4 inches from the end. It leaves 1-1/8 inches of wood at the end and 1-1/8 inches to each glue joint.
- Alternating grain. Turning the boards so the growth rings curve up, down, up helps the glued board stay flat.
- Glue only. Our guide to types of wood joints covers the edge joint and stronger joints to try later.
Tools You Need
- Tape measure, square and pencil
- A saw for crosscuts: a miter saw, a circular saw with a guide, or a hand saw and miter box
- Three bar clamps that open to 12 in. or more
- Drill and a 1-1/4 in. Forstner bit
- Jigsaw or coping saw
- Orbital sander or sanding block, with 120, 180 and 220 grit paper
- Putty knife or paint scraper for dried glue
- Safety glasses, hearing protection and a dust mask
Our post on portable power saws explains how to make straight cuts with a circular saw. Follow the instructions that came with your tools, and see our woodworking safety rules for the habits that matter in a home workshop.
Materials and Supplies
| Item | Actual size | Quantity |
|---|---|---|
| 1 × 4 × 6 ft. hardwood board: hard maple, beech or cherry | 3/4 × 3-1/2 in. | 1 |
| Wood glue labelled for indirect food contact, such as Titebond III | — | 1 small bottle |
| Food-grade mineral oil | — | 1 small bottle |
| Beeswax, optional | — | 1 small block |
| Scrap board for drilling backup | — | 1 |
Hardwood is sold in several ways, so measure the boards you buy. The plan assumes 3/4 inch thick and 3-1/2 inch wide boards. If yours differ, the finished width changes. Choose straight, flat boards with no cracks or loose knots. Woodcraft recommends tight-grained woods such as maple, beech or cherry for food use. Our guide on where to buy wood covers suppliers and lumber sizes.
Cut List
All sizes are in inches. The letter matches the drawings.
| Part | Name | Qty | Thickness | Width | Length | Stock | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| A | Board | 3 | 3/4 | 3-1/2 | 16-1/2 | 1 × 4 hardwood | All three are the same size. Trimmed to 16 in. after gluing. |
Cutting Diagram
Trim 1 inch off each end of the board first, so you start from square ends. Each saw cut removes about 1/8 inch. The board has 20-1/4 inches left over, which is enough for a short test piece for the finish. Our post on how to measure, mark and cut wood covers the basics.
How the Parts Fit Together
The three boards (A) are the same size, and any of them can go on either side. Glue goes on the edges that touch.
Drawings With Dimensions
Top and Side Views
The finished board is 16 inches long and 10-1/2 inches wide: three boards at 3-1/2 inches. The dashed lines are the glue joints.
Boards (A)
Cut all three boards 16-1/2 inches long. The orange lines show where the glued board is trimmed to 16 inches. The end view shows how to turn the boards so the rings alternate.
Corner and Handle Hole
The corner radius is 1 inch, and a 2 inch round object makes a good template. The hole is 1-1/4 inches across, centred across the width and 1-3/4 inches from the end.
How to Build the Cutting Board, Step by Step
Step 1: Cut the Boards
Trim 1 in. off each end of the board, so you start from square ends. Measure from the fresh cut and mark 16-1/2 in. Cut three boards (A), each 16-1/2 in. long. Stack them and check that all three are the same length. Trim any that are long. Measure from the fresh cut each time, and leave about 1/8 in. for the saw cut.
Step 2: Arrange and Dry Fit
Lay the three boards edge to edge on a flat surface. The joints should close tight with no light showing through. If a joint leaves a gap, try swapping the boards or turning one end for end. Look at the ends of the boards and turn them so the growth rings curve up, down, up. This helps the glued board stay flat. Pick the best faces for the top. Draw a triangle across all three boards, so you can put them back in the same order.
Step 3: Glue the Edges
Set the clamps out before you start, because the glue sets as you work. Titebond’s product page for Titebond III gives an open assembly time of 8 to 10 minutes at 70°F and 50% relative humidity. Spread a thin, even line of glue along one edge of each joint, and rub the boards together to spread it. Use a glue labelled for indirect food contact. Follow the temperature limits on the label.
Step 4: Clamp the Glue-Up
Put one clamp near each end and one in the middle. Place the outer two under the boards and the middle one on top, so the pressure on the boards stays even. Tighten until a thin line of glue squeezes out along each joint. Do not over-tighten. Check that the boards sit flat and that their faces are level at each joint. Leave the board clamped for the time on the glue label. Let the glue cure before you cut or sand. Overnight is a safe wait. Scrape off the squeezed-out glue after it has skinned over or dried.
Step 5: Trim to Length
Mark a square line 1/4 in. from each end. Cut on the lines, so the finished board is 16 in. long with clean, square ends. Scrape off any glue that remains on the faces.
Step 6: Round the Corners and Drill the Hole
Mark the centre of the hole 1-3/4 in. from one end, in the middle of the board, 5-1/4 in. from each long edge. Clamp a scrap board under the spot, then drill the 1-1/4 in. hole at slow speed. For each corner, trace around a 2 in. round object, such as a jar lid. Cut just outside the line with a jigsaw or coping saw. Sand to the line.
Step 7: Sand and Finish
Sand both faces and the edges with 120 grit until the joints are flush and flat. Move to 180 grit, then 220 grit, working along the grain. Wipe the board with a damp cloth to raise the grain, let it dry, and sand lightly with 220 grit. Ease all the edges and the inside of the hole. Wipe off the dust. Pour on food-grade mineral oil and let it soak in. Wipe off the excess. Repeat until the wood stops absorbing oil. Beeswax rubbed on afterwards is optional.
Mineral oil does not dry, so it needs no cure time. The Forest Products Laboratory and Woodcraft both name it as a simple finish for cutting boards. Tung and walnut oil need about two weeks to cure, according to Woodcraft.
Care Notes for the Finished Board
Give a copy of these notes with each board you sell, or keep them with your own.
- Wash the board after each use with warm water and unscented dish soap, then dry it right away.
- Do not soak it. Excess moisture can make wood warp or crack. Glued boards can also separate.
- Stand the board on its edge to air dry, so both faces dry evenly.
- Oil it about once a month with food-grade mineral oil or beeswax, or more often if it looks dry. Let the oil soak in, then wipe off the excess.
- Avoid olive and vegetable oil. They can turn sticky and rancid.
- Use wood for fruit, vegetables and bread. The University of Maine Cooperative Extension suggests plastic boards for raw meat, poultry and seafood.
- Replace a board when deep grooves or cracks make it hard to clean.
Changing the Size
- Width. Four boards make a 14 inch wide board. A fourth board adds another glue joint, and one more clamp helps.
- Length. A longer board needs more clamps, about one every 8 inches or so. Check that your clamps are long enough to span the width.
- Thickness. Thicker boards are heavier, but they resist warping better. Thicker hardwood needs a longer drill bit for the hole.
- Hole. Keep at least 1 inch of wood between the hole and the end or any glue joint.
Selling This Cutting Board
- State the size, the wood and the finish in the listing, and say that the board is oiled with food-grade mineral oil.
- Include the care notes with each board.
- Say what foods the board suits. Wood suits fruit, vegetables and bread.
- One 1 × 4 × 6 ft. board makes one board, with a piece left over. Cutting from longer boards makes several at a time.
- Offer set options, such as a wider board with four boards, or a choice of wood.
Rules for food-contact items can differ by state, and marketplaces may have their own. Check them before you sell. This is general information, not legal advice.
Work out your price from your wood, glue, oil, time and selling fees. See how to set the final selling price on your craft and how to sell woodworking projects. For more items to make, see the top 10 woodcrafts to sell and our woodworking business guide. Our wood finishing post covers other finishes.
Download the Printable Cutting Board Plan
The PDF has 12 pages on US Letter paper. It includes the cut list, the cutting diagram, every drawing in this post, the assembly steps and a care card. It is free, with no sign-up.
Download the cutting board plan (PDF)
Build status: plan checked by calculation; not yet test-built. Facts checked: November 2026.
Sources
- University of Maine Cooperative Extension, Bulletin 3108: Safe Cutting Boards: Materials, Usage, and Cleaning Tips
- NC State Extension, McDowell County, 2025, Choose Your Cutting Board With Food Safety in Mind
- Knaebe, M., 1998, Finishes for Wood Bowls, Butcher Blocks, and Other Items Used for Food, USDA Forest Service, Forest Products Laboratory (archived copy)
- Woodcraft, Food-Safer Finishes
- Titebond, Titebond III Ultimate Wood Glue product page
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